Out and About: Barracks Row

After hitting up Eastern Market last week, I decided to give its buddy to the south a run through before I hoped on the Metro back to Mt Pleasant. The extra time was worth the stretch. The Baltimore Sun called it the "new place to go in DC." CBS called it "ritzy," albeit for all the wrong reasons.

Barracks Row, like Eastern Market has roots in the early formative years of the District. The Marine Barracks, which still stand and are fully functional, anchored the site for many years near the Navy Yard. Thomas Jefferson made the decision to place the first District post of the Marines at this location in 1801. Its proximity to the Navy Yard and the river were key to his decision. Its the oldest active Marine post in the United States. The Marines also claim that the Commandant's House is the oldest continually occupied house in the District having been completed in 1806. I guess they're counting the years Truman was out of the White House (finished in 1800) during its renovation. Still a neat and historic distinction.

The area around the Navy Yard and Barracks Row were the military and commercial hub of the District for years. However, Barracks Row is now becoming known for its shopping, dining, watering holes and other services. The main, and only commercial strip is located on 8th St SE, closer to the Eastern Market Metro stop than Eastern Market itself. Visitors are greeted with a sight which may become more common around town, a Dunkin' Donuts across the street from a Starbucks. The nearby FedEx Kinkos gives the initial impression that the strip is all chain stores and not unique to any other part of the city with commercial activity. However, keep strolling down 8th Street and you'll find a neat array of independent businesses to keep you occupied.

I was impressed with the number of restaurants located on the strip. Just to name a few: Belga (Belgian), Banana Cafe (Cuban), Jordan's 8 (steak, nothing else. not even vegetables. ok, that was a joke. there are fries), Fusion Grill (Chinese), Las Placitas (Salvadorean, and my favorite for the neighborhood), and The Old Siam (Thai). That's not even really the half of it. Impressive list for an in-town neighborhood without the regional cache of an Adams Morgan, Georgetown, or even Bethesda (sorry! they have good food). The Barracks Row MainStreet does a good job of listing and promoting its businesses. Check the site for a more comprehensive list.

The commercial strip is surrounded by the quaint and quiet Capitol Hill streets, not giving away the fact that its pretty close to walking distance from the new Nationals stadium and the rest of "Near Southeast." There are some neat independent businesses, which somehow coem together to form a working retail center for this part of Capitol Hill. There's Capitol Hill Bikes (who I'd stack up against City Bikes any day), Pawticulars (animal puns are fun!), Backstage (just go in, trust me), Chateau Animaux (animal puns are fun only once) and a bunch of others. Again, check up on the Barracks Row MainStreet site for the whole kit-and-caboodle (yeah, one too many).

Finally, there are some nightlife, bar and grill hangout type places to complete the in-town neighborhood feel. The most interesting are Tapatinis, the Ugly Mug, the Phase and Finn macCool's (not a real neighborhood without at least one Irish place I guess). Together, Eastern Market and Barracks Row can almost make an entire day trip. Or a night trip if you want to get away from some of your regular 42 bus haunts, but still want to go to a "local" establishment. As for the Dunkin' Donuts-Starbucks war.... we'll let residents of SE take that one on. Give me Murky any day. To get to Barracks Row take the Blue or Orange Line to Eastern Market; as you exit the station look to your right. 8th Street SE will lead you into the neighborhood. Map it here.

Out and About: Eastern Market

Saturday marked the first time that I've had a chance to get out to Eastern Market on a weekend since a terrible fire devastated the 125+ year old structure last May. Part of me didn't want to see the venerable market in such a state. The morning after the fire I went to work feeling as if I'd been punched in the gut, Capitol Hill being my favorite neighborhood in the city, after Mt Pleasant. This section of the Capitol Hill neighborhood is anchored by the Eastern Market building, designed by German-born Adolf Cluss (also Sumner School, Franklin School, Arts and Industries, and more). It was completed in 1873. As the only remaining traditional farmer's and crafts market in the city with its own building, the Eastern Market defines the neighborhood and is part of what makes Capitol Hill such a pleasant and pretty place to call home. Earlier this year, Eastern Market was named one of the greatest neighborhoods in the country by the American Planning Association.

The area east of the Capitol Building and north of the Navy Yard is the home to the oldest continuously populated area in DC. During the early years of the District, the ship building and military presence at the Navy Yard coupled with the boarding houses and legislative work going on around the Capitol ensured that the areas in between the two would be the first to become real, lasting communities.

The neighborhood, however, is more than the Market building. The Metro Station and proximity to the Capitol Hill office complex have ensured that outside money and attention pour into the neighborhood year round. The two main retail areas are Pennsylvania Avenue SE and 7th St SE. The many restaurants, cafes, galleries, and shops can easily make a good half-day visit. There's YES! Organic Market, Bread and Chocolate (yes, located at 666 Penn Ave SE) and my favorite coffee east of the Hill, Murky. Specialty shops line 7th Street, like Uncle Brutha's Gourmet Hot Sauce and Silk Road. At the northern end of the 7th Street strip are Port City Coffee, Tunnicliff's Tavern and many others. Most businesses on 7th Street and Penn Ave are open on the weekends along with the Market.

Since the fire, a temporary "East Hall" structure has housed the businesses which formerly occupied the damaged South Hall. The city owns and operates the Market, and Mayor Adrian Fenty has pledged to rebuild the Market in a timely fashion, while providing a workable space for the merchants to sell their foods and products in the meantime. The East Hall Building is across 7th Street form original, damaged South Hall, and is very clean and inviting. Sitting down at the Market Lunch isn't quite the same in such a sterile environment, but to the establishments, the building is a means to continuing their livelihoods until the Market is rebuilt.

The market can be reached by taking the 42 bus to McPherson Square Metro, then a Blue or Orange Line train to Eastern Market. East Hall is open every day except Monday. The Open Air "Farmer's Line" operates on Saturday and Sunday, as does the Market 5 Gallery, and Flea Market. To be continued, chronicling Eastern Market's sister neighborhood to the south, Barracks Row...